Moody 419 Thornycroft T 108 and in mast furling

[Saugus Vejas]

Hello Moody community,

Could you kindly help me to make a decision.

I am looking for Moody and on the market I see another possible choice -- https://www.inautia.com/used-boat-42883030201769565049655248544568.html

But in this case I am worried about two things:

1. Engine.
Thornycroft T 108 48 Hp. More than 5000 moto hours, built around 1985. How was it maintained is unknown.

What is your experience with these engines? How long should I expect it to last? I know new engine would be advisable, but I wonder if that should be a priority at once.

Photo below is of the actual angine in question.

2. In mast furling.
I am familiar with in mast furling a bit. But I prefer sails with the proper shape. In my opinion, slab reefing is much safer and in case all lines leads to cockpit -- easier to operate. I know, some of you have oposite expierence and opinion.

My question is could you tell me how much could it cost and how big of a deal is to change from in-must furling to slab reefing. What is your experience?
Or maybe someone of you could tell me after look to photo -- this si original in mast furling system or the tube riveted on the back of the mast

Is it these two things a deal breaker when buying a boat?

Thank you for your time and opinions.

Rokas (Saugus Vejas)

 

[Micky Barnes]

Rokas, The engine is getting a little old. I changed my Thornycroft for a Beta whilst it was still in working order so that I could sell it. But it was a popular engine and spares are still available for it. You could ask for an oil analysis which would show up any significant problems but I had changed starter motor, upgraded alternator and had gearbox refurbished. The picture shows a large white alternator on the starboard side of the engine. This is not standard. From the details listed it may be an additional (second) alternator or is it a replacement? The Bruntons propeller is a good one by reputation especially for motor sailing. You should look at the condition of the fuel tank if it is the original mild steel one, especially if the fuel filler is in the corner of the cockpit which is vulnerable to water and dirt getting in as there is only a single rubber seal on the standard filler. I replaced mine with a plastic tank and the fuel filler moved to just inside the cockpit locker.

The in-mast mainsail looks like an add-on unit and could possibly be removed. But are the necessary winches still there? Many people swear by in-mast for convenience but like you I prefer slab reefing which I still do at the mast - less friction involved and you have to get used to getting out of the cockpit when the wind increases. I have had to drop the mainsail completely in a hurry a couple of times.

If the boat interests you then, despite my personal reservations about in-mast furling, I would be tempted to retain the in-mast at first to see how well it works for you. Changing back to slab reefing would be expensive and also require a new mainsail with reefing points. I have 3 deep reefs.
Best of luck, Micky

 

[Saugus Vejas]

Dear Micky,

Thank you for your asnwer.

Firstly if I will buy a boat with in mast furling, I will try out it. After some time and experience I will make a decision. Fro now in my point of view slab reefing better and safer.

Huge thanks for thoughts about engine. Here I not a big expert, any advices I appreciate.

Rokas (Saugus Vejas)

 

[Saugus Vejas]

Hello, again,

I have reiceived some more pictures of engine.

It is possible to say something more? I knot, what judging by these photos is not a smart, but I still can't reach the boat.

Thanks in advance,
Rokas

 

[Peter Wright]

Hi Saugas,

The photos show what you might expect for such an old engine, but do little to help judge the engine's condition. All they tell you is that the current owner is not obsessive about engine maintenance.

The condition of an old engine depends mostly on how well it has been maintained throughout its life, which is always hard to determine. That's why buyers of vintage and classic cars put a high value on a full maintenance history. In the absence of such documentation, if the answer to the following 6 questions is yes, the engine is in reasonable condition.

Does it start easily from cold?
After it has started, is the exhaust free of smoke?
Is it free of leaks?
Under power, is it free of worrying noises?
Does it overheat after 30 minutes at full power?
Are the results of a recent compression test good?

Similar thinking applies to in mast furling - if it's old, it's condition depends mostly on how well it has been maintained through life. Sadly, many yachtsmen, while attending diligently to engine maintenance routines, leave their tig untouched for decades and expect it all to continue working. So, if you plan to keep the main furler, it would be wise to give the equipment a thorough overhaul.

If the furler is in poor condition or the sail is old and baggy, I can guarantee that trying it out will just confirm your prejudice against the system. However, if you overhaul it thoroughly and use a purpose built sail in good condition, you may come to enjoy it.

Hope you manage to find the right boat for you.

Peter.

 

[Saugus Vejas]

Dear Peter,

Thank you for such a comprehensive explanation. I read a lot of MOA threads and I am impressed - you are a wealth of information.

I also read a lot information about chain plates. But did not find, what should I be looking for, when inspecting a boat with an endoscope camera. How I can recognize in photo from camera are there bulkheads damage, rotten and how bad it is.

For example, what I may expect from these chain plates (see attached photos)?

Rokas (Saugus Vejas)

 

[Peter Wright]

Hi Saugus,

Two checks you can do on deck. You need to understand that the chainplate is the vertical plate to which the shrouds are fitted, and it extends about 500 mm below the deck where it is bolted to a marine ply part bulkhead which, in turn is tabbed onto the hull with grp. The vertical plate on the deck is an entirely separate sealing plate intended to prevent any water on deck getting below. As such it should be sealed to the deck and to the chainplate.

First check is to look at the state of the sealant between the sealing plate, the deck and the chain[plate. If it looks old and crumbly, it could be leaking if it looks fresh and still flexible, the chances are it's good.

Second check, take a 300mm steel rule and put it edge down on the deck around the sealing plate - if you detect a bulge in the deck, that is asign that all is not well with the part bulkhead and/or water has got into the deck core. In my view, this would need further investigation below to see what has happened.

Unless the boat has been equipped with inspection ways to look at the chainplates below you are unlikely to be able to see the part bulkheads where the chainplates are bolted to them. Most vendors don't want potential buyers cutting holes in their furniture. Having an endoscope just means you can see the chainplates with smaller holes, but I like to feel as well as look.

Peter.