Moody 376 Standing rigging change - cost estimate

Tony Gratton

Temporary Member
I've seen a good 376 I'm seriously interested in. The standing rigging was last changed nearly 10 years ago, and as I am planning to sail blue water it is something I feel I need to change. Has anyone done this in the past few years, and if so would you mind sharing roughly how much it cost? I just need a ball park figure to check the boat is not going to break my budget. Thanks! If you want to keep it private, my email is tony.gratton78@gmail.com. Thanks!
 
Hi Tony,

Your best bet for this is to call a reputable local rigger, and you can now guess my answer to your other question,

Peter,
 
Hi Tony,

I have just finished to change mine in a 376. I have the same goal and for that reason the original rigging is 9 mm and I have changed for 10 mm. Costs: depending on the solutions and I have chosen Selden for the terminal: between 4k to 5k euros
 
Hi Tony, are you going to change the bottle screws and check the chain plates? Rigging only as good as weakest link.
Good Luck,
David.
 
Hi Tony, are you going to change the bottle screws and check the chain plates? Rigging only as good as weakest link.
Good Luck,
David.
I have changed the bottle screws also. The chain plates no. Did any one check and if so what was the conditions?
 
Hi Tony,

I have just finished to change mine in a 376. I have the same goal and for that reason the original rigging is 9 mm and I have changed for 10 mm. Costs: depending on the solutions and I have chosen Selden for the terminal: between 4k to 5k euros
Hi Miguel,
Thanks for the information. Much appreciated!
Regards, Tony
 
Hi Tony, are you going to change the bottle screws and check the chain plates? Rigging only as good as weakest link.
Good Luck,
David.
Hi David,
Good point, and I thoroughly agree! I would plan to do both. I hear the chain plates can be a struggle as they are buried in the cabinetry... Even more reason to check!
Regards, Tony
 
I have changed the bottle screws also. The chain plates no. Did any one check and if so what was the conditions?
Thanks for the update Miguel. As far as the chain plates are concerned you should be looking for any sign of rust such as streaks, hairline cracks etc. You can sometimes see the evidence below in the form of rust streaks leading to the bilge if there is an issue. The problems start if the deck seal leaks, allowing water to creep down the chain plate causing corrosion over time. Depending on the mounting point, that can also become compromised. Since they are often hidden behind the woodwork they get overlooked. I've not done my viewing yet, so cannot be more specific as I've not yet set foot on a 376, but perhaps other 376 owners might be able to be more specific.
Regards, Tony
 
Hi Tony, I Did an inspection of my chain plates about 5 years ago and they were fine but I reseal then about every two years, that’s the important think no water must get in.
I hope to sail the boat back to the UK this summer and next winter I think I will replace them with new.
It’s not too difficult to take the woodwork out. I did the starboard side in a morning and the port side in about half the time, it’s just finding the screws that takes time.
Regards,
David.
 
Hi,

I'm pretty sure the M376 is one where the chainplates themselves are bolted to marine ply part bulkheads which are tabbed to the hull behind the cupboards in the saloon.

I agree that the problem arises through leakage past the little plates screwed to the deck around the chainplate penetrations, but I have never heard of it causing any problem with the chainplates themselves, The failures that have been recorded are of the marine ply part bulkheads which, after prolonged exposure to water go soggy and rotten, allowing the bolts to pull through them. The leakage can also get into the deck around the penetration, weakening that at the point the top of th part bulkhead bears on it YN severe cases of failure, thepart bulkhed breaks across a line of bolt holes and the top part starts trying to escape through the deck

In my view, the things to look at are:
  • The integrity of the sealant around the sealing plate. In fact, don't just look at them, lift them, dig out the old sealant, chamfer the edges of the slot in the deck and rebed them with a modern sealant which will remain flexible such as butyl rubber, making sure the chainplate is sealed to the penetration - not just the plate sealed to the deck, The most common leak path is down the chainplate itself, not betwen the sealing plate and the deck. This job is much easier with the shroud removed from the chainplate, so is good to do when the mast is down, It is wise to repeat every 10 years.
  • The part bulkheads which are hidden behind the saloon cabinetry - your mainly looking for signs of water ingress and the condition of the wood and whether the tabbing to the hull remains in good order. Some folk manage to inspect with an endoscope wriggled intothe space, others cut inspection holes made good with dinghy hatches on our M425, the chainplates (3 each side) are all behind cupboards or bookshelves, so we've cut inspection holes which we have covered with offcuts from a teak deck job, held in place with screws. The radical approach is to remove the cabinetry and, if you find a problem, you will have to do that to make an effective repair.
  • While you're in there, by all means take a look at the state of the chainplates and their bolts, but they are most unlikely to show any sign of distress.
Peter.
 
Hello Peter,
all very good points you have made and will keep them in mind. I am thinking of extending the cap shroud plates for the load they are taking they always look on the small side to me. The currant ones are about 9 inches by 5 with 5bolts through so might take them down another 12 or so with say 4 bolts in a vertical line but I will decide when I get them out.
David.
 
Hi Tony, I Did an inspection of my chain plates about 5 years ago and they were fine but I reseal then about every two years, that’s the important think no water must get in.
I hope to sail the boat back to the UK this summer and next winter I think I will replace them with new.
It’s not too difficult to take the woodwork out. I did the starboard side in a morning and the port side in about half the time, it’s just finding the screws that takes time.
Regards,
David.
Hi David,
Thanks very much for the information. It's certainly a relief to know that the woodwork can be disassembled without having to hack it apart!
Regards, Tony
 
Hi,

I'm pretty sure the M376 is one where the chainplates themselves are bolted to marine ply part bulkheads which are tabbed to the hull behind the cupboards in the saloon.

I agree that the problem arises through leakage past the little plates screwed to the deck around the chainplate penetrations, but I have never heard of it causing any problem with the chainplates themselves, The failures that have been recorded are of the marine ply part bulkheads which, after prolonged exposure to water go soggy and rotten, allowing the bolts to pull through them. The leakage can also get into the deck around the penetration, weakening that at the point the top of th part bulkhead bears on it YN severe cases of failure, thepart bulkhed breaks across a line of bolt holes and the top part starts trying to escape through the deck

In my view, the things to look at are:
  • The integrity of the sealant around the sealing plate. In fact, don't just look at them, lift them, dig out the old sealant, chamfer the edges of the slot in the deck and rebed them with a modern sealant which will remain flexible such as butyl rubber, making sure the chainplate is sealed to the penetration - not just the plate sealed to the deck, The most common leak path is down the chainplate itself, not betwen the sealing plate and the deck. This job is much easier with the shroud removed from the chainplate, so is good to do when the mast is down, It is wise to repeat every 10 years.
  • The part bulkheads which are hidden behind the saloon cabinetry - your mainly looking for signs of water ingress and the condition of the wood and whether the tabbing to the hull remains in good order. Some folk manage to inspect with an endoscope wriggled intothe space, others cut inspection holes made good with dinghy hatches on our M425, the chainplates (3 each side) are all behind cupboards or bookshelves, so we've cut inspection holes which we have covered with offcuts from a teak deck job, held in place with screws. The radical approach is to remove the cabinetry and, if you find a problem, you will have to do that to make an effective repair.
  • While you're in there, by all means take a look at the state of the chainplates and their bolts, but they are most unlikely to show any sign of distress.
Peter.
Hi Peter,
Good advice, thanks. This is one of my biggest potential concerns when buying, given that most of the interesting stuff will be invisible during a viewing. I will closely inspect the deck sealing plates, and will take a straight edge to check that the deck is not convex around them. I think that's probably all I can do together with checking the bilges, if possible, beneath the part bulkheads, unless anyone has any additional advice?
Regards, Tony
 
Hello Peter,
all very good points you have made and will keep them in mind. I am thinking of extending the cap shroud plates for the load they are taking they always look on the small side to me. The currant ones are about 9 inches by 5 with 5bolts through so might take them down another 12 or so with say 4 bolts in a vertical line but I will decide when I get them out.
David.
Hi David,

In my view, the plates themselves are fine and even the number/ spread of bolts securing it to the part bulkhead are adequate for their duty, provided the marine ply remains in good condition. However, extending the chainplate further down the part bulkhead, with extra bolts through the marine ply will increase the tolerance of the structure to weakening of the timber part, which is clearly the weak link in this structure.

Peter.
 
Hi Peter,
Thank you for your reply. I will look at the part bulkhead when I get in there and probably ask a marine surveyor to advise.
Dsvid.
 
I've seen a good 376 I'm seriously interested in. The standing rigging was last changed nearly 10 years ago, and as I am planning to sail blue water it is something I feel I need to change. Has anyone done this in the past few years, and if so would you mind sharing roughly how much it cost? I just need a ball park figure to check the boat is not going to break my budget. Thanks! If you want to keep it private, my email is tony.gratton78@gmail.com. Thanks!
Just had my 376 rigging replaced inc bottle screws circ £ 2400.00
 
We've just got a quote to redou our 425 and here in Spain came in around Euro 4500 + VAT. Includes destepping of the mast and mast repair at the base.
 
Hi Tony, I Did an inspection of my chain plates about 5 years ago and they were fine but I reseal then about every two years, that’s the important think no water must get in.
I hope to sail the boat back to the UK this summer and next winter I think I will replace them with new.
It’s not too difficult to take the woodwork out. I did the starboard side in a morning and the port side in about half the time, it’s just finding the screws that takes time.
Regards,
David.
David Kendall


I am just about to remove furniture both sides to check and lengthen chain plates. Any advice re furniture removal replacement etc.

Cheers Martin
 
Back
Top